When some Italian friends came to visit us last week, we found ourselves acting as unofficial tour guides to the sights of Oxford. Showing visitors around made me realize how little I actually know about the city, and I couldn't help but feel a bit ashamed of having paid so little attention and shown so little curiosity until now.
Not that it really mattered, my friends weren't expecting me to dazzle and entertain. They were quite happy to stroll around the shops, sample some local ales in the pubs, and gaze up at the intricately carved sandstone facades of the university colleges. They weren't even bothered about seeing the inside of Christchurch College, a major tourist destination since parts of the Harry Potter series were filmed there, partly because entrance will set you back £15 a head, but also because so many of the buildings with their Gothic arches, vaults and flying buttresses seem like potential wizards' dwellings anyway.
To get a better view, we decided to climb the tower of The University Church of St Mary the Virgin. This is as good a place as any to start to learn more about the history of Oxford, having become the first university building in 1252. In 1555 St Mary's was at the centre of religious strife as the site of the trial of the Oxford Martyrs, three bishops who were burnt at the stake on the orders of Catholic Queen Mary I for their heretical Protestant views.
The tower is the oldest part of the church, dating from the 13th century. Access is via a series of flights of stairs past the mechanism of the clock with its cogs and springs, to some metal steps hidden among the roofs of the surrounding colleges, to reach the tight spiral staircase that winds its way round and round up the inside of the tower. Finally emerging dizzy and disorientated onto the narrow ledge protected by a stone balustrade that runs around the outside of the tower just below the spire, the breathtaking views of the Radcliffe Camera and Hertford and All Souls colleges were worth the climb. Those Gothic gargoyles certainly have a spectacular view.